Countdown for my ‘A Dish-a-Day’ blog – Day 9

 One of the oft repeated dishes at home has been a Rajasthani variation of  a chickpea curry, using the smaller brown Bengal chickpeas. This variety of chickpea is smaller than the Mediterranean one  with a brown skin that adds a lovely texture to the finished dish.

The recipe for Jaisalmer chana as the dish is referred to is a classic one with multiple variations of spice combinations. The constant ingredients however, are  the brown chickpeas, and the gravy consisiting of a yogurt and chickpea flour (Besan) blend. I’ve deliberately worked my way through 3 different recipes in a search for my favorite. Recipes from Chef Sanjeev Kapoor, an old recipe book by Nita Mehta and the third by Tarla Dalal. Nita Mehta’s recipe is delicious, but calls for a detailed list of dry whole spices that one may not have on hand every time. Tarla Dalal’s recipe is a total disaster. Yes, I know I’m being blunt and may invite harsh comments and protests, but unfortunately the ingredient list is heavy on Chili peppers in 3 forms. (green chili ground to a paste with ginger, dried red chiles in the tempering (although these are the kashmiri chiles)  and finally in the form of cayenne chili powder). While I pride myself of being capable of a high tolerance for chili pepper heat,  her variation has no sense of balance with other spices. The finished product was rather inedible, despite using my discretion about the chili (I halved the amount), with no real sense of an integrated flavor profile.
Ultimately, I have to defer to Chef Sanjeev Kapoor’s recipe for being the optimal version, given its choice of easily available  ingredients and that crucial ‘lip smacking’ factor. I did take the liberty of adjusting the heat to accommodate kiddie palates and slightly varied the cooking technique.

Jaisalmeri Chana (recipe by Chef Sanjeev Kapoor)

1 cup Black Bengal gram (kala chana), soaked overnight
1 cup Yogurt
2 tablespoons Gram flour (besan)
1/4 teaspoon Turmeric powder
Salt to taste
1/2   Red chilli powder (adjust to taste)
2 teaspoons fresh crushed Coriander (lightly broken into halves)
1 teaspoon Garam masala powder
1 -2 Green chillies, minced
2 tablespoons  ghee+ 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pinch Asafoetida
1 teaspoon Cumin seeds
Fresh cilantro leaves,chopped for garnish

Cook the soaked chickpeas in adequate water until soft, but not mushy. set aside , reserving the cooking liquid.
Whisk the yogurt with the chickpea flour, chili powder, and turmeric.
Heat the oil and ghee in a skillet and add the cumin seeds when the oil begins smoking. Once the cumin sputters, lower the heat and add the crushed coriander, garam masala, asafetida and the green chile. stir and allow the spices to bloom.
Add the chickpeas along with the cooking liquid and salt. Cover and simmer until the flavors have blended.
 Add the yogurt blend to the chickpeas and cook on a low heat until the mixture barely begins to simmer gently (you do NOT want to allow the gravy to boil).
Remove from heat, transfer to a serving dish and garnish with cilantro. Serve warm with Roti or plain rice.

Gatte ke pulao – Sahara Desert version

Q. How do you know when you’ve completely morphed into a true full blooded Foodie?
A. When you look forward to making something from your native Indian cuisine as a special treat, and when you begin, you can’t, just cannot refrain from reaching for those spices that normally have no connection with Indian food.

My traditional Friday evenings for the longest time, have involved making dinner from different cuisines and in the process, its been a great way to master some favorite classics from all over the world. Of late, its become pretty ingrained to whip up Thai curry rice or a Mediterranean Pasta with such ease that I’ve had to pause & think when it comes to traditional Indian  food . So when the other half suggested North Indian, I set out resolutely to make some traditional Rajasthani dishes. Determined to keep it authentic, I decided on making Gatte ke pulao (using a link from the late Jayashri Satish’s blog Kailas Kitchen ) & a ‘launji’ from bell peppers.

My attempts at ‘mise en place’ (every thing measured & set in place) began with the chickpea flour…
and ended with it.  Dinner was technically Gatte ke pulao, a classic rice dish made with deep fried chickpea nuggets blended with rice & caramelized onions from the Thar desert. &  the spicing?? definitely arid origins, but from a continent away, from the Sahara Desert!

Gattas are steamed & fried nuggets made from spiced chickpea/garbanzo flour bound with sour yogurt. In the arid regions of the Thar desert, fresh vegetables are a rarity, and hence the regional cuisine relies a lot on dried beans & legumes as a valuable source of protein. These steamed nuggets can be dried & stored for long term use and revived simply by frying them in hot oil.

The spicing I chose for my version was  the Algerian spice blend Ras el Hanout, traditionally used to season cous cous. Combined with a Harissa spiced blend used to season the rice, the final dish is exquisitely delicious, and leaves you surprised at the difference in flavors while reveling in the familiarity of a comfort food.

Gatte ke Pulao, Sahara desert version (technique adapted from Tarla Dalal, via Kailas Kitchen)

You need:

2 cups Chickpea flour (Besan)
2 teaspoon Ras el Hanout spice blend
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1.5 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
2/3 cup greek yogurt
juice of 1/2 a lemon
A Large pot of  boiling water
3 cups olive or canola oil  for deep frying

In a large mixing bowl, combine all the  ingredients except the yogurt & thyme and combine well using a whisk. add the thyme mix to distribute evenly and add the yogurt and lemon juice. Fold in & knead to make a stiff dough. Divide into golf ball sized portions. using a smear of oil to grease your palms roll out each portion into a ‘snake’ about 1/2 inch in diameter.

Bring the water to a rolling boil and add the ropes of dough. Boil for about 10-12 minutes. Remove and place on paper towels to cool completely. Once cooled, cut into small pieces as shown below.

Heat the oil in a  cast iron pan. When the oil is smoking hot, fry these nuggets in batches until golden brown. remove and place on paper towels to absorb any extra oil. Set aside. (you’re forgiven if you succumb to popping a couple or more of these down the hatch. they’re delicious!)

For the Rice

2 cups cooked Basmati Rice, fluffed to separate the grains
2 large onions
1 tablespoon cumin
4 tablespoons Olive oil
Salt to taste
1 table spoon Tomato paste
1 large knob of fresh ginger
1 teaspoon Harissa spice blend
2 cloves garlic
2-3 shallots
2-3 sprigs finely chopped flat leaf Parsley for garnishing

Combine the ginger, garlic, shallots,  and the Harissa spice blend and blend to make a smooth paste. Set aside.

Cut the onions into half and then further into thin slices.

 In a  large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of oil and add the onions. Fry until soft and almost caramelized. Set aside. Wash the skillet and return to the stove, adding the remaining oil.

When the oil begins ‘shimmering’, add the cumin, when the seeds sizzle & split, add the paste and fry on a low flame until the water evaporates. Add salt and the tomato paste and cook down until the paste loses its ‘raw’ smell (you may sprinkle some water to de-glaze if the pan gets too dry.). Add the caramelized onions along with the fried nuggets. Add the rice and fold to combine all the ingredients well.

Transfer to a serving dish and  garnish with chopped parsley.

Serve warm with a side of cucumber mint raita.

  Cucumber – Mint Raita.

 You need:

2 cups Greek Yogurt
1 cup shredded English cucumber (water squeezed out)
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves.
1 small green chili, finely minced.
 Salt & pepper to taste.
1/4 teaspoon dried pomegranate powder.

Combine all the ingredients well. sprinkle with the pomegranate powder. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Bon appetit

(Sharing this recipe with Girlichef and the well seasoned cook as part of the MLLA (My Legume Love Affair) event # 45.)